Another bolognese

This is a New York Times recipe I made for my hick about a month ago. I think I still prefer the one that takes about eight years to cook (noted elsewhere on this sporadically maintained blog), but for a happy Sunday afternoon's not-too-fussy pasta sauce it's perfect. x

 

Ingredients

Yield:About 6 cups

• 1cup shelled walnuts (about 100 grams), chopped into pieces no larger than ¼-inch (see Tip)
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1pound fresh mushrooms (preferably half shiitake and half cremini)
• ½cup olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1teaspoon fennel seeds
• 2teaspoons soy sauce
• 2teaspoons thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar (optional)
• 1medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1⅓ cups)
• 1medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2celery stalks, peeled and finely chopped (about ¾ cup)
• 4garlic cloves, chopped
• 1teaspoons dried oregano
• ¾teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• 3tablespoons tomato paste
• 2teaspoons Marmite
• ½cup dry vegan red wine
• 1(28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• Linguine, fettuccine or other long pasta (about 4 ounces per serving), cooked until al dente
• Minced fresh parsley or sliced fresh basil, for serving (optional)

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Preparation

1. Step 1

   Add the chopped nuts to a large Dutch oven or heavy pot and toast over medium, stirring frequently, until they visibly sweat and become fragrant, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.

2. Step 2

   Prepare the mushrooms: Stem the shiitake mushrooms (reserve the stems another use), if using, then wipe the mushroom caps clean using damp paper towels. Chop the caps into ¼-inch pieces. (Resist the urge to use a food processor here, which will chop the mushrooms unevenly.)

3. Step 3

   Wipe out the pot, then heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high. Add half the mushrooms and ½ teaspoon fennel seeds, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 6 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the toasted walnuts, then repeat with the remaining mushrooms and the remaining ½ teaspoon fennel seeds. Stir the soy sauce into the mushroom mixture, then the balsamic (if using). Set aside.

4. Step 4

   Wipe out the pot, then heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium. Add the onion, carrot and celery, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to caramelize and brown at the edges, about 7 minutes. Stir in the mushroom-walnut mixture, garlic, oregano and red-pepper flakes, and stir until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and Marmite, and cook, stirring frequently, until darkened and caramelized, 4 to 5 minutes.

5. Step 5

   Pour in the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until the alcohol cooks off and the liquid reduces until thick and sticky, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Step 6

   Add the crushed tomatoes, along with 1 cup water. Bring to a simmer over high.

7. Step 7

   Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are cooked through and flavors meld, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil, for richness, then season to taste with salt and pepper. (Makes about 6 cups.)

8. Step 8

   Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1½ cups pasta water.

9. Step 9

   Toss the cooked pasta with the desired amount of sauce (about ¾ cup to 1 cup per serving), adding pasta water as needed so sauce is glossy.

10. Step 10

    Divide cooked pasta among shallow bowls and top with more sauce. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with parsley or basil, if using, and serve immediately. (Leftover sauce will keep covered in the refrigerator for a few days, or frozen for up to 3 months.)

Tip

• You might be tempted to pulse the nuts in a food processor, but beware: It’s easy to accidentally pulverize them this way. Small pieces will burn by the time all the nuts are properly toasted, so chopping by hand is preferred.